WHAT IS A ROUTE?
A router bit is a cutting tool used with a router to mark (or gouge) spaces on the surface of a normally hard piece. Although routers and router bits are more commonly used in woodworking applications such as cabinetmakers and carpentry, these cutting tools can also be carried out in metals, plastics, and other materials. Essentially, however, these cutters are used to create joinery tools (for example, dovetail) or to decorate parts with decorative or decorative effects (for example, ribs, complex inlays or surface works). Using the correct bit of the router, users can trim, trim, and process parts with incredible versatility; These bits are available in numerous profiles and can be custom made to create almost any profile.
TYPES OF MATERIALS
Of course, there are many different types of router bits, and although they all serve the same common purpose, they each do different things and achieve different results. A good router bit, however, must be sharp, must maintain a sharp edge, and must be well balanced; it gives a little bit that will last longer and will “chatter” or vibrate less during use. Conversely, smaller pieces tend to wear faster, the chip is lighter, and chatter is more aggressive. Thus, the following: a basic breakdown of how the router bits are most often classified and their respective routing applications.
Type of cutter:
For the most part, router bits can be divided into three basic types: grooved mills, profile mills, and screw mills. The cutters are used for trimming and trimming, the profile cutters are used for trimming and molding, and the screw cutters, mainly used in more easily machined (softer) materials, are used for trimming, molding and drilling. Of course, in these three groups the bits can be (and are) more specifically classified - this will be reflected in more detail below.
Building:
Similarly, drills are usually made with one of three compositions: solid high-speed steel (HSS), carbide tips, or solid carbide. The HSS bits are the least expensive; they fade faster and, accordingly, are mainly used for finishing laminate or for working in softer blanks. Bits with carbide tips are the most versatile types of bits, as they are more durable and work (at least) quite well in all applications. Of course, they are more expensive than the HSS bit, but they are equipped with more complex materials, and they retain their sharp edges for longer periods. Solid carbide bits, as one might imagine, are the most expensive and most productive bit type. Although some may argue that their solid carbide construction is redundant, they are durable and provide excellent results. However, because of their cost, solid carbide bits are usually used only by the most practicing woodworkers.
Router bits can also be labeled as boundary bits, an edgeless bit, or a rollback bit. Edge bits include a small wheel bearing that acts as a fence against each workpiece; These wheel bearings can be modified to change the diameter of the cutting edge. Blind bits do not have this wheel bearing, and therefore a fence should be used with these bits (attached to the workpiece, the router itself or the router table). On the other hand, bits with recoil from impact have non-cutting material surrounding the "shoulders" bits. This extra generation around the bit limits the feed rate, which in turn protects the workpiece from over-acceleration of the bit. This reduces the risk of kickback, which occurs when a bit bites and captures the material that it cuts. This is usually the result of too fast feeding of the material. Bit-bit-back-bit generation also allows the bit to remain a coolant, which reduces the likelihood of polishing and allows the bit to maintain its sharpness better.
Shank:
The bits of the router are also differentiated by the diameter of their shank or part of the bit that fits into the router's collet. Shank sizes typically range from about 1/2 "to about 3/8". Although 1/2 ”shanks are usually more expensive, they are also the most popular because their shank thickness gives durability (in its rigidity), as well as less vibration during use. More chatter. As a rule, the smoothest cuts come from - due to their greater rigidity, many larger profile bits are only available with this 1/2 "shank, available with a 1/4" shank.
The bit head of the router and the rotator collet should have the same diameter that will be used together. Of course, collets of different diameters are available for purchase and are often included in the router itself. Adapters can also be purchased to facilitate the use of different shank sizes.
Speed:
To efficiently cut, trim and shape, the bits of the router rotate at very high speeds (from about 8000 rpm to 30,000 rpm). Since the bits of the router have a different shape and size, all bits of the router cannot / should not rotate at the same speeds. For example, since large bits have more girths and weights, they also have much greater potential for vibration or to be in some other container out of control. Then larger bits should be used at lower speeds. Similarly, bits that spin too slowly can burn and damage your materials. Accordingly, manufacturer guidelines should always be reviewed and implemented before embarking on a battle.
Although, as a rule, faster speeds are more beneficial when working with router bits (they usually give a much smoother cut), speed is not the only factor that contributes to the quality of the cutting results. The clarity and composition of any given bit, the material being cut, the type of router used, the feed rate, and other factors affect the results obtained by your bits. Accordingly, you will need to run the bits at appropriate speeds before you assume that the faster you spin them, the smoother your results will be.
PROFILES AND APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS:
As mentioned above, there are many designs of bits and, according to this profile, each bit has a different specialization. The following is a brief summary (in alphabetical order) of the most common types of bits and what bits do best.
Ball Cards:
As the name implies, the bit end bits have a ball or spherical shape at their bottom, which guides the channels for pipes and cables.
Bullnose Router Bits:
The Bullnose bits are designed to create a (convex) rounded edge at the leading edge of the workpiece.
Knocking down lights:
Chamfers for chamfering produce a clean corner cut. They are commonly used in joinery for hidden joints and beveled edges in multi-sided constructions. Chamfer bits are also used to create a decorative (albeit simple) corner edge.
Router Combined Bits:
Combined bits are mainly used in trimming for trimming softer materials and, in particular, veneer.
Core Box or Router Router Bits:
The core box or round nasal tips form a semicircular groove or groove or coil with a rounded bottom. They are commonly used for flute and cane.
Router Corner Round Bits:
Corner round bits are used to create a rounded corner on the workpiece (usually furniture).
Sponge Box Bits:
Drawer drawers are used to create action handles on the fronts of drawers and cabinets.
Router Bit Bits:
Edge shaping bits (for example, beat beats bits) are used primarily to create a decorative edge on the workpiece. These bits often include a pilot bearing for guidance and are commonly used to create the final decorative part. Since these bits are almost singularly used for decoration and can take on virtually any profile, there may be many different types. To name a few of the most common types of bits that form an edge, the edge beat bits, bay bits, ogee bits (or Roman ogee) bits, and circular bits will usually occur.
- Bit and two-bit bit bits:
Big bits create a decorative rounded-rounded profile. Double bits of bits, so these two and one-quarter rounds run right below the other.
- Router malleable bits:
Drill bits are used to create a concave (or retreated) Quaternary circle on the edge of the material.
- Edges for beadwork:
Log bits are used to cut decorative semicircular profiles, called “beads,” into the edge or corner of the workpiece. This edge usually has a small lip or fillet in the upper and lower parts of the convex half of the circle.
- Ogee Router Bits:
Ogee bits have an “S” profile and create an “S” shaped edge on the workpiece. These decorative edges have one convex hump and one concave coil (for example, “S”) and usually have a small fillet in the upper and lower parts of the cut. This provides a more traditional or “antique” finish.
- Round router bits:
Round bits create a perfectly rounded edge on the workpiece. They are commonly used in the manufacture of cabinets and furniture.
Finger grip router bits:
Fingers for gripping fingers form a drawer pull handle on the front edges of some drawers and cabinets.
Flush Trim Router Bits:
As the name implies, milling bits are used to trim the edge of one material so that it is flush with the edge of another material. They are often used to wash veneers or to get the same shape in several blanks. These bits are used with a pilot bearing, which may be located at the top of the bit or at the base of the cutting edge.
Fluting Router Bits:
The fluorescent bits are used to cut grooves (or a concave profile) into the workpiece (usually molding).
Tickets for joinery cutters:
Joinery bits are used to make specialized types of grooves for precise joining. They are then used in almost all types of structures, where one part must be connected to another. The most popular carpentry bits are dovetails, drawer lock bits, finger brackets, latch lock bits and tongue bits and grooves.
- Dovetail Bits:
Dovetail bits are used to create a solid connection between materials and are commonly used in cabinets, frames and racks. They are available with a huge variety of angles and include threaded couplings and spikes (usually fan-shaped) in an adjacent piece.
- Box lock bits:
The drawer lock bits are designed specifically for connecting perpendicular pieces (for example, connecting the sides of a drawer to drawers) and should always be used with a router table. They create a wedge-shaped thorn.
- Bit bits for finger joints:
The connecting bits for the fingers have a number of thin horizontal cutters that protrude from the bit (for example, fingers). When this profile is cut into two separate parts, the interlocking grooves / extensions create a strong end or edge joint with a larger bonding surface area. Some finger braces have adjustable cutters.
- Blocking router bits:
Blocking bits of bits have a reputation for being difficult to use, but they create durable and (when used correctly) perfectly aligned end seams with a large surface area for bonding.
- Router-and-Groove Bits:
Bits with teeth and grooves are used in pairs to create a tongue and groove joint in the workpiece. This connection works together between the edges (where one part has a thin deep ridge (tongue) and the other has a slot (groove), these parts are tightly pressed together to form a connection).
Key-boring pads or keyholes:
The keyhole bits are used to cut keyhole-shaped holes found on the back side of the suspended blanks, such as picture frames. These slots, of course, an assistant in the suspension of these pieces.
Router Bits:
Molding bits are used to create complex decorative profiles in architectural and furniture molded products and are usually much larger than a typical edge. They can include several profiles on one bit and create decorative edging for molding parts. Because these bits are more fundamental, they are almost always used with a router table.
Mortise router bits:
Mortise bits are used to cut grooves (or square cuts). They are used for carpentry and for carving sites for equipment such as hinges and lock sets.
Rabeting Router Bit:
Broken bits are used to create brackets or cuts on the edge of the material. These cutouts / cutouts are vertically and horizontally straight and create a profile in the form of a step. The splitting bits use a pilot bearing that is located at the top of the bit and guides it along the edge of the workpiece. The use of pilot bearings of different diameters allows one rabbit chisel to make cuts (billets) in several sizes.
Extended Group Router Bit:
Raised panel bits are available in both vertical and horizontal configurations and are commonly used (with steel and rail bits — see below) to create profiled decorative edges on the panel (for example, a door). Horizontal relief panels cut out the profiles, while the panel to be cut is flat (horizontal) on the desktop. Vertical raised panel bits cut profiles into a panel while the panel is on its edge, and, since their radius is much smaller, they are usually considered safer and easier to operate.
Spiral router bits:
Spiral milling bits are designed like spiral drill bits with grooves around the bit body to form a sharp spiral profile. They are available in inverted and axial configurations and, at the same time ideal for cutting on cutting, they are also used for forming, cutting and trimming edges in various materials.
Bits of stylish and rail routers:
The frame and panel design, steel and rail bits are designed to create decorative edges and grooves on the edge of the workpiece (most often at the door with a raised panel and custom cabinets). Usually they are part of a set of two matching bits, but are also available separately.
Router Direct Bits:
Straight bits are supplied with different cutting diameters and are intended for direct cutting of material into a slotted area or for the production of groves or dado in the workpiece (usually for plunging or inlaying). Straight bits are very common and can also be used for dado bonding and for general cutting of materials.
Bits V-Groove Router:
The V-groove bits are used to cut the V-shaped groove into the workpiece. Although they are ideal for bending the miter, these bits are commonly used in inscriptions and signs.
Veining bit bits:
Beats bits are designed to create decorative cuts. They are usually used for free work and inscriptions.
TIPS FOR OPTIMIZING YOUR MATERIALS:
To complete this journey through the basics of router bits, here are a few tips to help you optimize your router bits and your experience with them.
First, you should always keep your router bits separate from each other (sometimes even in their own separate blocks). Because the router bits are heavy and fragile, you want to minimize their contact with the fact that they are not currently cutting. Do not allow your bits to roll about to stumble and knock on other items that they will surely chip at.
Secondly, be careful. Dull bits can damage your materials and will generally produce bad cuts. Like many other cutters, the bits of the router can be sharpened to preserve their edges.
Third, be careful how you handle your router. Both forced movement and movement too slowly can cause overheating in both the bit and the router. Overheated bits can damage parts and can lose pace (which reduces bit integrity), and overheated tools can cause internal and sometimes irreparable damage. Звук, который ваш инструмент делает, когда вы вырезаете, обычно является довольно хорошим индикатором того, правильно ли вы находитесь.
