Have you just bought a new or used slide in a camper? Or maybe you are on the market, but are sure how much your truck can pull out.
Maybe it's all the other way around. Like many of us, the camper may already be on the driveway, and you are ready to move to a new towing vehicle.
After buying the last coupe, I discovered that my old 3/4-ton Ford with a 460-cubic gas engine did not cope. Next stop, local dealer for much needed truck upgrades. I was lucky!
Now is a new truck in your budget? If so, that's great. If not, there are some things you could do with your existing vehicle to make it a bit more “suitable camper”. But do not forget, you can never change the factory rating for your truck. You can do it better to do the work for which it was created.
But don't be surprised if even the new truck needs some help. I spent a few hundred bucks to get my dual-wheel diesel engine to the extent that I feel comfortable. Then a few hundred more to prepare him for towing trailers, which I usually take.
So what now?
One of the first things I recommend is homework and simple math to determine what your tourist really weighs on. Not what it says on the data plate that it weighs, but the actual reading. Yes, I understand that this can be a daunting task, especially if you don’t have a camper at your disposal.
But, my personal experience tells me that manufacturers and dealers "underestimate" the real weight of their tourists. Sometimes a lot! If you really want to be safe and legal, do not accept anyone, do your homework.
One place to look for this information is in the RV online forums. You may have to join the couple and ask how much weight may be for the camper you are looking at. Be specific here. You need to know the total weight of the load with water, propane, and the same amount of equipment as usual on an average trip.
Seek more than one opinion. Most people believe that they know the answer, but have they really weighed their division? Probably no. I weighed two of my players on the federal scales of DOT trucks (don't ask me how), and they were several hundred pounds above the manufacturer's stated weight.
Be realistic. Your tourist will probably never be easier. Most people tend to accumulate more amenities, and the RV just gets heavier.
Trucks, lifting capacity and power units
Some basic rules apply here if you are shopping (it seems that you bought this new tourist, eh?) For a new carrier. You already know the real weight of your new slide. Make sure the truck has a load capacity of at least equal to this number. Brakes, suspension, engine and axles are designed to work within this rating.
If you plan to tow a trailer, consider this weight. The mass of the trailer (hitch) must NOT place the truck above its nominal axles on the front and rear parts, as well as together. Your truck will also have a total gross weight, which is the total weight of the truck, all cargo and all vehicles being towed.
Recommendations on the engine and transmission are really the subject of another article, and basically it is a matter of personal preference. My choice is a 6-cylinder diesel engine with a 6-speed gearbox. It gives me a big tradeoff between power, fuel mileage and handling. I also like the ability to use a diesel exhaust brake to help with stopping, especially when there is no trailer.
Dancin? Down the highway?
Does your truck combine with rock and roll camping in the corner or when large rigs pass? This is very common and more pronounced with newer tourists who can be very tall and heavy. My new camper with a raised floor and a large number of the head room is a good foot, higher than the 2003 camping site that previously belonged to me, which was by no means short. In addition, many of today's 4x4 trucks are a few inches taller than older trucks.
Combine this with the longer rear springs installed on most new trucks, and your camper can really sway in the wind. Even dual rear wheel sensors are not protected. The body of the cart rolls from side to side along the body of the axle, so an additional set of rear tires does not completely eliminate the problem. What to do?
There are a number of possible remedies. Almost all trucks can use rear pneumatic auxiliary springs. If you are lucky with a truck that accepts inflatable airbags installed outside the truck's frame rails, they can significantly reduce body roll and also help carry the weight of the camper. Built-in air springs will have some help with a body roll, but their main job will be to carry some of the weight.
Air springs can also help level the camper, which is heavier on one side. Nowadays, this is a common situation with large refrigerators, generators and drawers. My personal camper has all three on the passenger side, so it really bends over. By running about 20 psi on this side, the camper will level off.
Does your truck have a rear overload? springs? Most 1 ton trucks have these as well as many new HD trucks 3/4 ton. Because they are short and hard, if you put them to work earlier, they really matter.
You also need to look at the factory-installed rear anti-shock panel. How much is this possible when some of the aftermarket bars are available? Probably no. Or is it even there? When I bought my new 3,500 heavy heavy truck for pickups, I discovered that it came WITHOUT the factory back panel. It turns out that the manufacturer did not offer one on this truck!
The last thing I mention here is shock absorbers. Despite the fact that truck manufacturers these days set far better shocks than in the “good old days”, there is a lot of room for improvement when you add 3000-5000 pounds of camping.
Do some homework after shocking. My personal recommendation would be a mono-pipe kick. They have a large surface area on the piston, which really helps control the movement of hydraulic fluid. This is important in order to help stop the movement created by this great weight. They are available at very reasonable prices from RV dealers and online shop sellers.
I do not think that hitting the road is the best choice in this application, if you don’t actually travel out of the way as soon as you arrive at your destination or maybe you get there. Most of us remain largely on the sidewalk, and in this situation it is best to stick to shocks meant for work.
So, short and sweet. Properly paired and prepared truck and camper will be safer and, I hope, legitimate, to go down the road. He must take you back and forth, in comfort and safety.
One last little safety tip. Considering all the talk about tall trucks and tall tourists, be sure to check the overall height of your installation. Many can be at a height of 12-1 / 2 feet above the ground. Many flyovers are below this, and you can imagine a slaughter if you are not ready!
