One of the best tips I've ever given on buying a classic muscle car was to invest in high-quality materials for resources so that I could crack the code on vehicle identification numbers (VIN) to make sure that not fooled.
The best way to find a high quality book is to find what experts are using. On the Internet, you can enter a theme, like a Camaro recovery book, in the Amazon search box. You can also use Google and follow links that lead you to various forums and websites. Chevrolet by Numbers, Alvin Colvin, is the best book I've ever met for Chevrolet part numbers, vehicle identification numbers (VIN), trim marks, and model identifiers. The book is easy to read, with chapters for different components. Again, I used this process in my search to buy a rare Camaro. Just google the car you are looking for and follow the links. The best resources will be obvious.
Here is a list of objects that you will need when decoding your car.
A small flashlight, notebook, resource or handbook, mirror mechanics, pen or pencil, wireless or wire muck, floor jacks and jacks, overalls, rags, brass wire brush, brake cleaner, yellow or white consistent pencil, digital camera or video camera.
If you continue to read this information, I can only guess that buying a classic muscular car with the correct numbers and relevant parts is important to you! Good! It should be! If so, I will tell you an example of decoding a car. This will give you an idea of what you need to properly decode the car.
Be prepared not to rush. I also found a sure way of awarding to determine who your true friends are. Ask them to go to help you decode the car! Having an extra body can sometimes cut the time in half. I also recommend finding a specialist or consultant on your car and buying a couple of hours of their time, especially if you want to purchase a special model of a classic car. It was my experience that an extra set of eyes can only help the cause. I found an expert in one of my directories. Before I looked at my current car, I spent about an hour talking to him, and made a list of things that I need to look for. (Of course, if you want someone to process from A to Z, services are available.
Process
Before I arrived, the owner told me that the car was basically a roller project, that is, the engine and transmission were removed from the car. The engine, transmission and other components were placed in a pile where it would be easy to look at the numbers. The owner also claimed that this is a limited edition Camaro, but he did not have any documents, such as the original invoice, or a security plate (a special metal plate in the form of a credit card, which is used for warranty and repair services). This type of document eliminates the need for further documentation. If you do not have this type of document, then follow it. When I got to the place where the car was stored, the first thing I did was check the VIN number. The VIN number is probably the most important number on the car. If you do not know how to decode a VIN on a particular Chevrolet, you cannot verify other components or numbers. What you like about the book is that you are viewing the entire decoding process, including the provision of a specific number. As a sidebar, any good resource book on your particular make and model car will allow you to describe the decoding method of your car, including seat numbers and decoding information. In 1968 and 1969, the Camaros VIN is located on the top of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. The number is visible through the windshield. I wiped dirt and dust off the VIN tag and copied the numbers into my address book.
VIN
I was able to determine that my car was originally a V8, it was a two-door sports coupe, manufactured in 1969, assembled in Norwood Ohio, and it was the 662.8XX-th car built at that factory this year.
Trimm ,
In 1969, all Camaro labels were located in the engine compartment, riveted in the upper left corner of the firewall. I took a rag and cleaned all the dust and tore off the rag. Since the numbers were not so clear, I re-marked the trimming tag and removed the rest of the garbage. I used a flashlight to highlight the numbers, and then copied the numbers into my notebook. Some trim numbers match the VIN tag numbers, which was a good sign. The remaining numbers showed that my car was number 353, XXX, to go down to the assembly line of this plant. The interior was originally a standard black interior, and the car was built in the first week of June 1969. The car was originally painted in twilight, and it was equipped with a spoiler package and a chrome trim kit. So far, everything has evolved. The reason for all these details is to show how you can confirm that what you think you are buying is exactly what you are getting.
Before moving on, I want to tell you how appropriate this is. Husband and wife from my car club went to see Chevelle. The car was advertised as Super Sport. During the verification process and references to the above book, they identified a number of inconsistencies. According to the numbers, the car originally started off as an ordinary Jane 6-cylinder car. The car was now painted in a different color, had a different color interior and a different engine. You get the picture. Over the years, one (or more) of the previous owners modified the car and tried to turn it into Super Sport. The fact is that it may not have been done maliciously, but the car still did not start as a real Super Sport. And the presence of the option Super Sport clearly increases the cost of the car.
Engine code identification ,
The engine is sealed at (2) locations on the 69 Camaro. One is on the right front engine mount. Another place is located on a rough foundry on the back of the engine, just above the oil filter. Again, I wiped the areas I just described with a vacuum cleaner sprayed on a rag. You must have a clean surface, and usually the brake cleaner will do the trick. The number of front engine pads appeared to have been restored at a time, possibly after the engine block was decorated (Decking into the engine process to check the flatness of the block for irregularities that cause compression and water leakage.) The hard part is reading the number on the area above the oil filter. I recommend a really bright light and a magnifying glass. If this is not the case, then I suggest taking a little hydrochloric acid, applying it to the numbers. This should make the number readable. The reason why this number is sometimes difficult to decipher is that these engines were manually printed and perforated on a rough surface. According to the figures, I determined that the engine was a powerful 425 horsepower engine, with a 4-speed manual transmission. The last numbers also corresponded to the last numbers of my VIN, which meant that it was the original engine of this car. The numbers told me that the engine was assembled on June 14, which fell in accordance with the date of assembly. The part number of the cylinder block, which is pushed into the back of the block, was also cleaned with a rag and brake cleaner. The part number of the unit denotes the high performance unit used for the Camaros. Another piece of the puzzle is confirmed.
Rear axle identification ,
The numbers on the rear of the Camaro are imprinted on the top of the right axis. My experience is that this area is usually quite hard and rusty. And this rear axle was no exception. Having examined the cleaning of the wire, I cleaned the cleaning with a cleaning agent. Placing myself on my back, I beamed the light in the square, holding a mirror. It was still not clear enough for me to read exactly. Then I took my consistent pencil and ran through the numbers. The purpose of a consistent pencil is to contrast the metal of the axial tube. When I put the mirror on the area, I was rewarded with a very sharp image of the part numbers I copied into my notebook. According to the numbers, this rear axle assembly had a gear ratio of 4.10: 1, limited slip. The axis was assembled on June 16, 1969. Do you see a pattern starting here? Axle numbers also indicated that the axle is original for the car based on date codes relating to the build date in June 1969. I applied the same approach to other parts.
Here are my conclusions. The cylinder heads, intake manifold, carburetor and transmission were the correct part numbers for the car. However, none of these parts was listed on the date in the car. One of the heads was made in April 1968, the other in February 1969. The transmission was made on January 24, 1969. The reason that I know that all these parts are incorrectly indicated coded for the car, I decoded each one, by studying the part numbers and date codes. All this information is important because he not only confirmed what the owner told me, but also showed that other parts correspond to the build date. Thereby providing further confirmation of what I was watching. During my investigation, I took pictures with a digital camera of all parts and details as I could. I spent about 30 minutes on foot by car with a video camera and edited what I was shooting. I also took a list of things that the Camaro expert told me about and checked them one by one. Later this week, I phoned a Camaro specialist and shared my findings. I reviewed all of my research, including listing the individual part numbers and the “all you need” checklist. By the end of the phone conversation, I was 99 percent sure that this Camaro was what was advertised as.
The last thing I did was to ensure that the car was documented and certified by a certified appraiser Camaro ,
GM also hid the hidden VIN numbers in (2) different places on the car. The reason for the hidden VIN numbers was to add one more step in preventing and identifying the stolen vehicle. Since it is fairly easy to remove and change the VIN tag on the dash, the hidden VIN provided a backup system for checks and balances. For example, someone may change the VIN tag, but if they are not aware of the Hidden VIN numbers, the person in the course can easily identify numbers that do not match. Since the car was purchased by a roller project, it was easy to check these hidden VINs, against the VIN tag on the dash. I wanted the appraiser to personally check them, and he confirmed that the numbers are authentic. In other words, the certificate authenticates the car. Many evaluators will also provide you with a report on their results. The best part is that the car is certified, this type of document is usually considered as documentation, dressed in iron. This usually increases the cost of the car, since the certificate of authenticity. And if you are ever going to sell a car, now you have the documentation to provide the seller that the car is real (Super Sport, Rally Sport, Z / 28, etc. You fill the gap)
Some people may wonder why anyone would do all this work.
However, keep in mind that many of these muscle machines are over 20 years old and have gone through numerous owners and modifications. This whole story before it is restored back to the original state of the cabin. In other words, many parts of the bolts are interchangeable with other models and different years. So, because the parts look normal, it does not mean that they even belong to the car. In the example above for couples and Chevelle, the car was rated as Super Sport, but the trim mark and other numbers reflected a completely different story. Despite the fact that the car was beautifully restored, it was really nothing more than a modified 6-cylinder base model Chevelle, which once turned into a V-8 for some time in it. Do not get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with modifying a car to individual owners. The problem is when the car is sold, and the seller of the forger mention (consciously or unconsciously) and inform the new owner about the changes. Our Chevelle pair would gladly pay the asking price if the car were a true Super Sport. But, since they knew how to decode a car, they were able to save them a lot of time, money, and aggravation. At that time, the difference between the simple Jane Chevellet and the real Supersport was more than 10,000 dollars. Just to throw some numbers there, let me be conservative and say that it takes 6 hours of research to decode a car. Using our figure of 10,000 dollars, this is equivalent to about $ 1,600 per hour. A good return on your investment time. As muscle and classic cars have become more popular, I have seen many occasions when, just for fun, the owner will start to do research on the car he owns.
Finding your car isn’t what you think you’ve purchased, it can really blow the wind out of you. By investing a small amount of money and time, exploring and deciphering your intended muscle purchase, you can sleep at night knowing that you received the value you paid. Anyone else interested in spending a couple of hours on peace of mind when buying a classic or muscular car ???
