Nowadays, the painting of concrete surfaces, both old and new, using acidic stains (also called reactive stains or chemical stains) is very popular because of its unique appearance and economic efficiency. Acid coloring is a process in which an aqueous solution of metal oxides and inorganic acid is sprayed over an existing concrete surface. An acidic metal oxide solution reacts with lime (calcium hydroxide) present in concrete to form insoluble, colored compounds that become a permanent part of concrete. Therefore, one of the basic conditions under which dyeing concrete using acid stains will work is the presence of lime in the concrete. Quietly often, people who have just bought a house or apartment have removed carpet or vinyl tile and found something they consider concrete to be under. When they spray an acidic spot or a reactive spot and wait to get a well-deserved, because they do not see any color changes on their concrete surface. This is due to the fact that the substrate, which is similar to concrete, is actually a gypsum plaster. Builders often use this on the upper floors to level the flooring areas and provide a good basis for other types of flooring. Unfortunately, Gypcrete staining does not give the desired results because it does not contain any lime; besides, it is too soft and easy abrasive. Therefore, Gypcrete & cannot be used as a wear layer.
Since Gypcrete surfaces cannot be used as a wear layer and acid stains do not work on them, a 1/16 inch polymer-modified modified concrete material is usually used for grinding (also called a micro-top or skimmed layer). Below you will find the steps associated with re-grinding of the hypotropic and acid staining with a microsurface or skimmed layer -
a. Swipe the Gypcrete surface and thoroughly dry the surface. Cut out the joints where drywall meets the floor. Clean the surrounding areas, even those that have not been opened by microversion.
b. Install an oil paper (plastic) of at least 48 "on the surrounding walls.
from. Using a new viscose skin, apply the first layer of acrylic primer (Cp1000) after diluting it with a water @ 1: 1 ratio. After waiting at least 60 minutes, apply a second layer of the diluted acrylic primer and let it cure all night (or at least 10 hours ) before moving on to the next stage.
Apply another layer of acrylic primer, this time not diluted and let it dry for 30-60 minutes. The third coat of primer can be applied using a garden sprayer (i.e., in Home Depot or Lowes).
e. Apply a thin layer (1/16 ") with a microfill or polymer-modified overlay using a magic trowel. Follow the link to get specific instructions for using a polymer-modified microversion, Sgraffino, for at least 24 hours. In humid and cold conditions (basements ), wait at least 48 hours before proceeding to the next step.
e. Apply an acid stain to a fully discharged microversion. Please follow the link for specific instructions on applying the acid stain, Patinaetch. Let the surface painted with acid dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.
Micro fill must be protected with good quality sealant. Apply one coat of water-based epoxy sealant, Perdüre E32 - another layer of water-based polyurethane, Perdüre U46. Allow at least 6 hours between applying epoxy primer and polyurethane topcoat. The sealed surface will be ready for use after 24 hours. Of course, for a complete cure it takes at least 3 days.
