Three days to the Columbia River
Depart Astoria OR (River Mile 15)
I do not need to dream of distant exotic ports, which I may never see, because at first I will explore my own backyard, so to speak. We agreed that our son will go with us to the coast. The plan was to bring the sailing boat to Astoria, and he would bring the trailer into the void, leaving the three of us to take care of ourselves and find our way up through our home pier. The boat ramp in Astoria is comfortable and well designed, but the pre-launch area is a park area for gravel and part of the muddy field. We parked outside the other crew of the sailboat, which was busy stepping on the mast and rigging the boat. Because of the dirt and gravel, I decided that we would take a boat as soon as possible, so I told my 10-year-old to learn to play docks and try to stay away from the sea lions who took one whole swim. Sea lions are so large and crowded that the float listing and partially immersed. These are some of the same creatures that will soon sail 130 miles upriver to the Bonneville Dam, where they will tremble, returning Salmon that the basin is below the dam.
While dragging the boat, I can hear the group next to us accepting instructions from their skipper. I hope I don't look like that. For a little over an hour we were ready to retreat along the ramp and turn off our boat. The launch goes off without a hitch, after a few minutes we are on the way, I turn and watch long enough for our son to return the right way home. He is on his own, and so are we. We swim quietly past sea lions; they ignore us when we move into the river. Not a hint of wind when we point to a stream. The river is smooth and level; we are about ten miles from the ocean. In addition to the upstream, you would not know us on the edge of the largest ocean in the world. Colombia is about four miles wide in Astoria, with many sandy bars and mud flats. There are two navigation channels going up the river, one of which is the main channel where ships going to Portland must run or run aground. The other is shipping boats and meanders behind grassy islands along the Oregon side. We are not yet oriented; we have our timeline, but we don’t know where we are, so I’m pointing out what a likely channel looks like at some distance. We wave to another sailboat as they walk, heading for the main channel. I wonder if they thought they were lost. We travel about three to four miles, and using binoculars, trying to find somewhere a number that we can find on the map. I still do not know where we should go, but I studied the coast and do not think that we are anywhere near the canal. Just because the charts list the islands, and you can see the island, it does not mean that your boat belongs to the island. I think that now the river is more than ten times, so it is easy to confuse. I begin to wish that we would not leave the dock without a better plan than to the east, and see where you are going. We are finally close enough to positively identify the marker and understand that we are going to a dead end. I change course and cross the area that the diagram shows as having only one foot of water at medium low tide. Our depth singer speaks of eight feet below us, but I’m very nervous as our keel drops about six feet. Running aground is not the only concern, staying in the dead center or scuba piles is a very real opportunity and a good reason to go slowly.
In short, as we approach the Oregon coast, we find some assessments that correspond to our map, and finally, we know where we are. The wind is stealing a little and we are swimming, I kill the engine and enjoy the silence. I would not call the presentation impressive, but it’s very interesting and not at all boring. Birds, of course, everywhere, Heron's constantly present around every corner, still standing, trying to look invisible, and when they run, they look positively prehistoric. You can’t sail to Colombia without seeing hundreds of Osprey and their nests, they seem to own every pile or navigation tool ever made. Cheeky young people are just as big as their parents, and they demand that they be fed non-stop. We stick our bows in the backwaters and coves, which seem interesting, sometimes we mark deer, but more often cows. Amazingly, we are discovering buildings in this area that are really just a few feet above the water. Most of them are shacks left over from more favorable times on the river, but some of them are quite substantial and have rotten old docks, some are occupied. When we get close to see that someone can live there, you suddenly feel disturbed and quickly turn away. The wind is very spotted, sometimes we do not move at all. I think we were stranded and asked if anyone thinks that we stopped moving, Jayden is sure that we are still moving because he can see that the stream is flowing around the boat. I lined up on the beach with two trees and I can say that we stopped (stuck in the mud). I play a guessing game longer and finally announce that someone will have to spin the keel, or we will be stuck all day. Nobody moves, Linda reads, and Jayden goes on the nose. I sit in the cabin and turn the winch handle one full turn, then I look at the trees, nothing, one more full turn and free, again a sail, one with the wind, charging the flow of the mighty Columbia River. Unfortunately, someone needs to go soon, or I spend my keel even more. We manage these narrow waterways for several hours, and thanks to random markets we know exactly where we are. We have GPS with us, but using the chart looks more appropriate and enjoyable. I remember how to fold the keel back, and he is confident that we can change our project from six feet to three feet when necessary.
When the sun goes west, the wind rises, and we swim well. We are clearing the last of the islands and are in favor of the main canal, I think that the port of Katlamet is just in the next corner, and soon a forest of boat masts and a breakwater will appear.
Cathlamet, WA (River Mile 40)
I hate taking sails, we really didn’t swim very well until the last hour, and I don’t want to leave. Soon we are going to the pier; there are quite a few people around, a few waves and a lot of kayakers. Just past the gas jetty, I see a stretch of open dock and glide smoothly into space right behind the sailboat that followed us from Astoria. We exchange subtleties, as if there were old friends, they mention that they were hours, what a big sail. What happened to us? I tell them that we went behind all the islands, had a great time, did not use the motor until we needed to release the sails and the motor to the pier. It reminds me, I need to check the gas and may have to fill before we go out tomorrow. Our new friends said they would stay the next night at Longview Yacht Club. I thought to myself: I did not know that Longview has a pier or pier, how can they have a club. Hotel Cathlamet has a large, small jetty and a lively place. We encountered an old acquaintance in a canoe. They offer camping, transitional pier or all year round. The pier is very protected from ship traffic, there is a boat ramp and a docking station for fuel. This is just one block that goes to the city, where there are several restaurants and shops for shopping. We arrived early enough so that we could tour the city and return to the boat to cook dinner before dark. In the morning, after a leisurely coffee and breakfast, we moved to a small small canal behind the island on the side of Washington. There was a lot of evidence of old logging operations in which they processed lot rafts. We hacked something two feet below the surface and found a row or submerged heels. After a short way, the waterway kept walking and made us turn around, leaving the reconnaissance to the kayakers. Where we flew into the main river is Puget Island, the island is served by a bridge from Washington and a ferry from Oregon. As we moved up the river, the ferry collided in front of us, so we dived into the deck ferry and waited for its return. I don’t know what was more fun when travelers were looking at us or us from the ferry, starting with them. Until now, we barely advanced along the river and had already killed three hours. There is no wind again, just like yesterday, so we sit down on a monotonous sleep of 4 miles per hour, causing chopping. On the side of Washington, we walk along beautiful high cliffs. I check my cards and find the names Eagle cliffs, Bunker Hill, Oak Point. In Oregon, we see mostly lowlands and, of course, pretty soon we turn onto another sensible island waterway to explore. After checking the chart, I will determine that there is sufficient depth and turn the bow again towards Oregon. After a few minutes, the main river is history, and we are again surrounded by nature. Anyway, 4 miles per hour, it seems that we are racing, even being disrespectful, using a noisy outboard motor. I reduced engine speed to idle time and watched the shoreline slide. Sometimes we come to the notorious fork on the road and after checking the head of the chart in the left passage. It is not very long before the “hit”, and we are very rude, no warning at all. Depth ranged from 15 feet to 3 feet in half the length of the boat. We free ourselves and move about twenty feet, and do it again, and again, and arrrrgain. Now I see some people on the shore on another channel. They are saving themselves from us to use another channel. I am credited with listening to their waves, because my modern timeline says to go this way if we ever expect to see the Columbia River. We free ourselves for the last time and move towards our saviors. They stand on their private dock, having a little fun. They tell us that the charts were wrong for twenty-five years, and all we have to do is steer to the right from here, and we will have a lot of depth, right down to the main river. And local knowledge, what would we do without it.
The wind reappears and we are no longer moving. Without starting the engine, I no longer feel disrespectful when we split almost in silence. Despite the fact that we climb the river, we float in the wind, so we have the movement of the boat, cutting through the water, and we move with the wind, so he is very calm with not very obvious wind on board. We are next to Longview, and the wind has lifted a lot. Basically, we sail within wide limits and no longer swim right in the middle of the river. I choose headlines to keep the boat under control and comfortable (not pumping too much), otherwise my team may rebel and no longer walk with me. We fly Reiner and Longview. Rainer has a nice new guest dock, which we spent the night several times, and the city has a place for pizza. I look over the beach at Longview. I still have not seen the pier or pier or even the river to hide, not to mention the yacht club. All I see is a big mill. It is already starting to get dark, and my hopes of getting to St. Helens are starting to fade with daylight. I'm really torn right now. Continue or return to Rainer? The wind moves us faster than ever; but it gets darker even faster. If I press and the wind dies, we will ride a motorcycle for a long time. If we continue and hit something with such speed, it can become a serious problem. In the dark, I will not be able to get close to the shore, for fear of grounding, and my perception of the distance has almost disappeared with the light. Of course, my team does not know my thoughts, they just want to go to the cabin to warm up and find lunch. I press; one factor surpasses all others today. I have a great sail and I don’t want it to end. When I look ahead, trying to make out everything that does not belong to water, I see some industrial lights along the coast.
Calama, WA (river mile 75)
We are approaching Kalama. Five miles away I fall in sails, and we move to the pier. The boat pool is located behind a high dam, completely protected from the traces of passing ships. I expect Kalama will have a temporary dock. The office is closed, so we need to find a place to communicate at night. We were here before to get fuel, but never went outside the entrance. I admire the many boats. Powerboats are mostly under cover, each slip like a private garage. Sailboats have high masts, so they do not fit under cover, they are mainly located at the end of the docks, where there are no roofs. Each parking space has its own light and power plug, and there are whirlpools nearby. Pedestrian ramps leading to the docks have a blocking gate with security systems. As soon as you exit one of these doors, and it slams behind you, it is impossible to return inside without floating. We need to make sure that we are not locked. It is dark, but with marina lights we have no problem to make our way safe. I see what I was looking for, a sign with an arrow pointing to the guest pier. The Friday of the guests is at the very end, about a hundred feet of the open docking station is intended for guests, so we reach at the very end, trying to get closer to the ramp as close as possible. In the water near the docking station there is a large amount of floating debris, apparently, the local wind and currents cause all this fleet to gather here as a welcome mat for visitors. Some of the snags and logs are fifteen feet long and twelve inches in diameter. I put my foot up for a moment, when I tied the boat, a big mistake, I should know better. In an instant, I could be in the water and be trapped under this mess. We are all hungry, and food was the main topic of discussion, so we go up the ramp and head for the city. The guest dock is outside the security gate, so we can come and go as we please.
The center of Kalama is essentially on the other side of the interstate, so all we need is a walk along the railway line across the sky, and then under the highway through the road tunnel, and then go out onto the main street, go along one local night place with a pictogram of an advertising sign. It should be on Saturday night because there are a lot of loud parties on the other side of the door that says “NO MINORS”. We are mostly in a family environment. Walk back to the boat is windy and cold, sleep is easy today. Breakfast and coffee in the sun, light wind. It looks like the beginning of a nice day. During the daytime, we can see how much of the mess we parked floats, covers the end of the pool, and the guest docks are swallowed; one dock is completely useless. When we go out, I have to be careful not to damage our propeller or steering wheel. As soon as you left the pier, we can see the city park with its high totem pillars, the view that we missed in the dark. Kalama is on river mile 75, after the best part of two days on the water, which I feel at home, but I think my team wants to be at home. I suggest making for St. Helens and eating ice cream in a small shop within walking distance of the public jetty. Wonderful spirits rise. Now the motor sail, between the light winds and the quiet purr of the engine, the boat makes good speed. We strive back and forth, trying to make the best use of variable winds. A random ship chases us from the middle channel and warns us. Not at all, like the backwaters around the islands, where the minor excitement is the minor Osprey, who demands to be fed.
St. Helens, OR (River Mile 86)
The sandy island lies right off the coast of St. Helens and (almost) protects the community from passing ships. The city has a strong boat commitment and supports free public docks on both the mainland and the island of Sand. During the summer, the island has a free boat that makes it easy to ride a boat on the island and still ride into the city.
The passage between the mainland and the island of Sand is narrow and has a strong flow, making landing on both sides with all the attention of all crews on the maneuver on the deck. At one time here we found the hard way, the old submerged pile up near the dock. The docks are very pleasant, on the shore there is a small city park in which there is a gazebo and a small grassy amphitheater. The hot and cold showers in the bathrooms (all free) make St. Helens one of my favorite destinations. We move up the ramp, heading for the ice cream and Gelato shop. Не спешите уходить, мы проводим некоторое время в небольшом парке перед зданием мэрии, где у них есть хорошая пешеходная дорожка, изображающая разведку Льюиса и Кларкса. Это очень полезное место для посещения.
Вернувшись в край воды, я сижу в беседке, чтобы прочитать, пока моя команда обнаруживает речную выдру, играющую под плавучим поплавком. Городской служащий появляется в одетым в шикарную форму и быстро собирает там какой-то маленький помет и так же быстро уходит. Иногда мы собираемся на лодке и отбрасываем, основная река находится всего в нескольких минутах ходьбы. В этот момент у лодок есть большой выбор маршрутов, главная река - самая короткая и самая быстрая, без сомнения, но более живописная, расслабляющая и пробитая дорога - это канал Мултнома. Остров Sauvies на стороне штата Орегон составляет около 15 миль в длину, а после канала Мултнома вокруг острова до реки Уилламетт и обратно в Колумбию - около 24 миль. В этой поездке я хотел исследовать небольшую волну на стороне Вашингтона, поэтому мы остаемся в Колумбии. Вскоре мы очищаем огненный свет Воина на острове Сови и продолжаем движение по реке, сохраняя острые следы коммерческого движения, и иногда смотрим на эхолот глубины. Бег на мель не является серьезной проблемой, и наш качающийся киль очень прощает, но его больше не похож на море в лодке, чем на то, чтобы быть хорошим водителем и ударять припаркованными автомобилями с резиновыми бамперами.
Остров Сови имеет знаменитый и популярный обнаженный пляж, и вскоре мы отправляемся в круиз, его трудно увидеть с биноклем, отскакивающим от волн. Вернувшись на сторону Вашингтона, я искал устье, которое я нашел на своем графике, но никогда не изучал. Согласно тому, что я прочитал, рядом с небольшим островом расположилось коттеджное поселение. Я вижу небольшую подводную лодку, идущую с берега и меняя курс, чтобы исследовать; конечно, небольшое открытие представляет себя. Паруса вниз и мотор очень медленно, мы осторожно приближаемся, я знаю из прошлого опыта, что острова протягиваются под водой в течение длительного времени, и нам нужно найти канал для безопасного входа. С сотен лет коммерческого использования я ожидаю, что у реки будут гнилые старые свайки где угодно и везде. Я прошу Джайдена внимательно следить за луком. Одним взглядом на певца глубины мы смело продвигаемся вперед. На тысячу футов мы проходим по рампе лодки, которая, как я полагаю, является местом, откуда произошла бегство. Мы опустились примерно до шести футов, поэтому я немного закручиваю киль и продолжаю двигаться. Теперь мы можем видеть плавучие дома; это выглядит примерно дюжиной. У некоторых есть лодки, связанные, один большой парусник. и мы снова остановимся. Калибр читает четыре фута, мне приписывают больше поднять киль, мы приближаемся к тому месту, где руль может ударить, и не только нанести какой-то урон, но мы могли бы застрять. Я поднимаю киль еще раз и поворачиваю назад, не задумываясь, чтобы полностью опустить киль, когда мы очищаем остров и продолжаем движение по Колумбии. Я не откажусь от того, что большой водный парус должен был прийти во время более высокой воды, и мы тоже, или в следующий раз, когда у нас будет шлюпка, мы можем закрепить и проложить последнюю милю. Это будет еще одна поездка, в другой день. Там не так много, чтобы увидеть с обеих сторон, но с низкими берегами или песчаными пляжами, остров Совиес - спортивный случай в миллион долларов, но в Вашингтоне тоже есть.
Когда мы приближаемся к Портлендскому и Ванкуверскому районам, движение лодок увеличивается, плюс есть корабли на якоре. Я узнал много лет назад, чтобы держаться подальше от припаркованных кораблей, когда я запутывал свою мачту с помощью рыболовной линии, которую матрос имел за бортом. Сегодня безопасность - большая проблема, поэтому мы не боимся судов. Река Уилламетт впадает в Колумбию на вершине острова Сови и создает стоячую волну прямо на перекрестке. Водолазы, как правило, режут этот угол близко, а иногда награждаются стенкой воды над луком. Мы продолжаем проходить мимо более крепких кораблей и вскоре выступаем против Хайден-Айленда, дома в торговом центре «Янцен-Бич», а в нескольких пяти пересечениях реки Колумбия. Наш причальный бассейн вырезан на острове Хайден, а вход находится на стороне Колумбии острова, поэтому мы остаемся в главном канале остальной части нашей поездки. Последней задачей, которую мы должны преодолеть, является мост железной дороги, при высокой воде диапазон пролета должен открываться, чтобы обеспечить маневренность. Одна поездка, которую я помню, прождала два часа, чтобы пройти, мы прибыли днем и, наконец, очистили промежуток после наступления темноты. В этот день вода низка, и наша нынешняя лодка, благословленная короткими палочками (размер имеет значение), проскальзывает снизу, через тридцать минут мы благополучно оказались в нашем промахе в Хайден-Бей. Раньше на нашем пути в Асторию мы оставили машину на стоянке, так что она ждала, пока мы поедем домой. Это была отличная поездка, я планирую сделать это снова, когда-нибудь принеся мой надувной байдарку или лодку, чтобы исследовать районы, которые я пропустил.
Хайден-Бей, Портленд, OR (речная миля 107)
Джон
